Installation
of the VFRness on 2002+ models:
Overview:
Installing the VFRness is as
easy as it could be. You will need the following tools:
Allen wrench for body panels
Small 8mm socket on extension(or
a nutdriver) for the tank and the R/R bolt(just one)
10 mm socket or wrench for
the battery
Small piece of wood or similar
to prop the tank up (or a loving someone to hold it)
The following items must
be removed:
8 Allen head bolts and 3 panel
clips to remove the body panel (there are 3 different bolts, keep them
separate)
2 more clips on the battery
cover
2 bolts on the battery(always
start and end with the ground wire)
2 bolts at the front of the
tank
Prepping the bike:
1. Remove the seat and set
aside
2. Remove the battery cover
by pulling on the 2 black plastic nubs and set aside
3. Remove the ground cable
bolt(right side) from the battery using the 10mm socket. Watch to be
sure the nut in the battery terminal doesn’t fall somewhere. Flex
the negative cable aside, so it is out of the way.
4. Remove the positive cable
bolt(watch the nut again)
5. Remove the rubber strap
from the top of the battery and set aside
6. Remove the battery from
the tray and set aside
7. Remove the 30 amp fuse from
the main holder next to the battery and the 20 amp fuse from the VFRness.
8. Remove the two 8mm bolts
from the top of the tank, near the handlebars. Set these somewhere safe.
9. Remove the two trim clips
under the fairing, and the 1 trim clip in the black panel behind the
front wheel near the top of the panel. These are best removed by using
a small screwdriver or key to push in the center about ¼”, then pull
the trim clips out. Set these aside with the tank bolts.
10. Remove the 2 Allen head
bolts from the top of the right fairing panel, remove the 4 from the
side of the panel, and the 2 from the front (in the black part behind
the front wheel). Note which length and style of bolt came from which
hole. Two of them have a shoulder on them. Two others are slightly shorter(from
the black part behind the wheel). The other 4 are the same, and connect
the fairing to the top/from fairing.
11. Carefully pull the panel
back and out from the bike. There is tab on the front fairing that catches
the panel…slight pressure will disengage it.
12. Locate the R/R. It has
fins, and is bolted above the radiator on the right side (under the
panel we just removed). Remove the 8mm bolt at the back of the R/R…we
will be putting a wire under here.
13. Follow the wires from the
R/R to the plastic connector. This is usually located inside a clear
rubber boot.
14. Push the rubber boot away
from the connector, and disconnect the connector by push down on the
locking tab while pulling them apart.
15. Lift the tank(it hinges
at the back, neat huh?), and prop it with a small board, pole, etc.
Installing the VFRness:
1. Lay out the VFRness. Note
the end with the connectors that look like the R/R connector. Check
to be sure they match the connections on the bike. There is a male and
a female connector, they only fit one way.
2. Starting with the fuse end
of the VFRness, feed it along the top of the radiator hose to the inside
of the frame of the bike. Reach down from the top, and pull the harness
up along the frame until it is level with the top of the frame.
3. Following the thick fuel
lines, route the harness towards the left side, and a little bit towards
the back of the bike.
4. From the left side of the
bike, continue pulling the harness until most of the length is out the
left side.
5. The fuse end must end up
with the other fuses, so routing it under the black subframe behind
the battery is the best way.
6. Carefully thread the fuse
end along bottom of the subframe until the fuse can come out the subframe
near the other fuses.
7. Be sure the VFRness is rotated
such that the positive connection, 10 inches from the fuse, comes out
near the positive cable. It should reach out about 4.5 inches, enough
to bolt to the battery but not have excess in the way.
8. Reinstall the battery in
its tray, and test that the positive cables both reach the battery terminal.
Go ahead and bolt it down now, main cable on the bottom, VFRness cable
on top.
9. Reinstall the rubber strap,
but do NOT install the negative cable at this time.
10. Once all lengths have been
confirmed, and it fits, use the supplied zip ties to hold the VFRness
to the fuel lines….this keeps it from moving around and chafing.
11. Lower the tank, and reinstall
the bolts.
12. On the right side of the
bike, connect the R/R connectors to the VFRness connectors.
12.1 Next to the OEM
R/R connector is another rubber covering with 2 connectors inside.
One of the connectors is a 4 wire, with a RED and RED/Black wire.
Using the included T-Tap connector crimp it to the Red/Black wire.
This is the switched power source. Connect the Spade terminal
on the blue wire to the T-Tap connector
13. Reinstall the R/R bolt,
with the ground loop under it and tighten.
14. Carefully tuck the Relay
and wires against the frame. There isn’t a particular place they need
to be, just close enough that they won’t interfere with the body panel.
15. Reinstall the negative
cable(but not the battery cover yet)
16. Install the supplied
20 amp fuse in VFRness and in the OEM fuseholder as well.
Testing:
1. First test the battery voltage
with the bike off. It should be 12.5-13.2. If it is lower, charge your
battery before testing.
2. With the key on, test the
voltage at the accessory wire. It should match battery voltage.
3. Start the bike, and retest
the voltage, you should have around 13.5-14.5 at idle.
4. Increase the RPM to 5,000
RPM, and test at 5,000 RPM. You should have 14.3-14.7 volts.
5. Retest the voltage at the
accessory wire. It should match charging voltage now.
6. Try different RPMs and various
lights on/off….make sure the voltage doesn’t vary widely from 1500-5,000
RPM
Reinstall the battery cover,
seat, tank bolts and right fairing. The secret to installing the plastic
clips is to take the center portion out, reinstall the body, then insert
the center portion once again.
Assuming you made it this far,
congratulation on the installation of your VFRness. You can now rest
easier knowing that you have removed the kinks and false readings that
have caused so many owners incredible grief and problems. If charging
system problems remain please contact me for help.
Joshua Tilton
aka Tightwad
tilton@gmail.com
